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The Many Lives of the South African Bush
My name is Valeria Margherita Mosca, a cultural anthropologist specializing in ethnobotany, wildlife conservation, and partnership studies. I have long dedicated my life to observing, studying, and protecting natural ecosystems.
Recently, I joined a conservation project in South Africa with Wildlife ACT, the only on-the-ground volunteer initiative officially supported by WWF across Africa. My work focused on critically endangered species like the African wild dog (Lycaon pictus) and the black rhino (Diceros bicornis), using direct monitoring, satellite telemetry, and participating in delicate dehorning operations to protect them from poaching.
The journey began in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, one of Africa’s oldest protected areas, a mosaic of wooded savannah and subtropical bushveld teeming with elephants, zebras, rhinos, lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, and wild dogs. The park’s biodiversity thrives on intact natural cycles shaped by alternating rainy and dry seasons.
At night, the bush comes alive with hyena calls, distant lion roars, and the hum of nocturnal insects. Sleeping in a tent each night, I was immersed in wilderness, surrounded by its most vulnerable and awe-inspiring inhabitants - one of the few places on Earth where true wilderness still reigns.
The African bush is not only the land of great mammals. Its true vitality pulses within the small forms of life that inhabit the tall grasses, thorny shrubs, and seasonal waterholes. Reptiles, amphibians, birds, insects, and small mammals weave an invisible yet essential balance.
Across sands and clearings, snakes and lizards keep small animal populations in check; as the sun sets, frogs and toads announce the coming of the rains. Above the canopy, colorful birds, winged predators, and tiny weavers bring the skies to life, while in the undergrowth galagos, caracals, and wild cats move silently through the shadows.
And yet, the smallest creatures sustain it all: pollinating insects, termites, and beetles that transform, fertilize, and let the soil breathe. Together, they build an ecosystem as complex as it is fragile.
The bush reminds us that conservation is not only about iconic animals, but about the entire web of relationships that sustains Africa’s biodiversity.
Each day began before dawn. Alongside a team of zoologists and rangers, we traversed kilometers of sandy tracks and clearings, searching for radio signals from the GPS collars fitted on select African wild dogs and rhinos. Telemetry monitoring is an essential technique for studying the movements, territories, and social behaviors of elusive or low-density species. By tracking an animal’s location and heart rate, we can assess its health, estimate reproductive success, and intervene in case of risk or injury.
At the same time, we conducted direct observations of packs and family groups, recording every interaction: postures, scent-marking, hunting behaviors, and parental care. These data form a biological archive indispensable for developing evidence-based conservation plans.
One of the most delicate activities I took part in was rhino dehorning — a veterinary procedure that involves the controlled and painless removal of the horn to deter poachers. Made of keratin, the horn regrows over time; its preventive removal, performed under anesthesia and in sterile conditions, is currently considered one of the most effective tools to reduce poaching-related mortality.
Being part of these operations, observing an iconic and vulnerable animal like the black rhino up close, was an emotionally overwhelming experience — a direct encounter with both the fragility and the resilience of wildlife.
After my experience in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, I moved to Manyoni Private Game Reserve, 23,000 hectares of savannah and bush in the heart of KwaZulu-Natal. Established in 2005 to host a founding population of black rhinos, it has grown into one of South Africa’s most important private reserves, now home once again to lions, cheetahs, and wild dogs — a true Big Five reserve.
But Manyoni’s strength lies not only in its large predators. The reserve works toward holistic ecological restoration, protecting even the less conspicuous forms of life — insects, reptiles, small mammals, and native plants — that maintain the balance of the entire ecosystem.
Here I realized that conservation is not only an ethical choice but also a scientific and cultural responsibility. In the field, the beauty of the bush is fragile: behind the picture-perfect image of a safari lie fragmented habitats, threatened species, and increasing human pressures.
Seeing is no longer enough. One must truly see: understand, participate, act. Those who enter the bush as tourists leave with memories and photographs; those who enter as conservationists leave transformed, with a renewed mission — to safeguard that beauty so it may endure.
Get ready for the adventure
Meet the author
Valeria Margherita Mosca
Valeria Margherita Mosca is the most important forager on the Italian scene, a cultural anthropologist specializing in ethnobotany and environmentalist. Graduated in Conservation of Anthropological Heritage, in 2010 she founded Wood*ing - wild food lab, the most important research laboratory on the use of wild food for human nutrition and forge of projects for the protection of biodiversity and cooperation with the environment.
Paddling along the Coghinas River
Valeria Margherita Mosca, cultural anthropologist and Montura Ambassador, explored the Coghinas River, witnessing the delicate balance of biodiversity in this Sardinian landscape.